Delta Lake - "Lead me to the Rock that is Higher than I..."

When I first conceived my Forty by 40 list, the idea of hiking to Delta Lake was at the top. For those of you unfamiliar: Delta Lake is a glacial lake at the base of the Grand Teton. Due to glacial silt, the water has an opaque turquoise hue unlike any other body of water I have experienced. Scott and I first became aware of it when we planned our trip to the Tetons last year. However, the intense description of the hike and the fact that it is an unmarked trail unmaintained and unrecognized by the park service was enough to deter our efforts on our first venture out west. However, as the Tetons daily loomed large in our minds, I began to regret not attempting the ascent. Therefore, when my 40 by forty list began to take shape, we started planning our return. What follows below is my travel journal entry written on that memorable day chronicling the most epic hike of my life. I hope it inspires you to take your dream hike/trip! 

August 21, 2024:

Today is a day that we accomplished BIG things. I couldn't sleep because of nerves and excitement. We woke around sunrise and quickly prepared for our massive undertaking. Honestly, after our Cascade Canyon Hike and the pain I had, I wasn't sure this body at 39 was going to be able to handle the beating it would recieve. Part of me secretly wanted to believe that people were exagerrating how hard it would be, and the mental and physical effort it would take (spoiler alert: they were not). However, I nervously donned my new Delta Lake socks to fill me with the spirit of the mountain, and we packed up to head to Lupine Meadows Trailhead. As we drove, I pondered on the lectio I listened to early in the morning when I could not sleep. The verse quoted for the meditation for today was Psalm 61: 2-3"From the ends of the earth I call to you when my heart is faint. Lead me to the rock that is higher than I, for you have been my refuge, a strong tower against the enemy." This verse became my mantra for the day and an analogy for life during our difficult journey.

We got to the trailhead around 7:45AM and packed our gear to join the throngs of other energetic hikers. The trail started out easily enough, but about a mile in we started to go up, and knew we wouldn't see a downhill step until we were heading back down the mountain that afternoon.

As the switchbacks began, the breaks and the need for focused breathing became much more frequent. Hikers started trying to determine if they had what it took. We came upon a group where one woman was ready to head back and the other stated, "My mind is made up that I'm going to Delta. It is not in my brain chemistry to change my mind." I felt like she and I were kindred spirits. I briefly mentioned my bucket list, and for the rest of the hike, it was as if we were facing this foe together.

After a grueling uphill battle, we finally made it to the turn-off for Delta. A trail sign warned, "Are you prepared for this?" It mentioned the trail was unmarked and unmaintained and many had been lost or injured along the way. However, we knew our reward for persevering would be great, not unlike our journey through a messy unmarked life.

We pressed pass the sign to meet with our biggest challenge yet: the boulder fields. On the way, we met a lovely couple who warned us not to take the path straight up the mountain the way one would be tempted to do, but veer to the right toward Glacier Gulch and make our way heavenward. We also met an interesting and gregarious man wearing a very large camera and probing us with deep philosophical questions about life. He told us he was from Denver and worked for Space Force doing orbital mechanics. At one point he asked me what drew me to medicine and whether any dark or personal moment had driven me to want to walk with others through their most vulnerable moments. So many tough days at the hospital immediately came to mind. I hope that pushing through the sheer exhaustion on the mountain will similarly come to mind when the days are long and the emotions are raw.

Two boulder fields and many pika sightings later, we came to the headwaters of the Glacier Gulch waterfall, and just above smiling down was the Grand and the milky opaque turquoise waters of Delta Lake. We had made it!

After several photos and perching on a warm rock for lunch, Scott made his way toward the middle of the lake for a cold plunge. Knowing that a cold plunge in a glacial lake was also on my 40 by 40 list, I nervously walked over to accept my fate. My feet went numb as I walked over to a rock in deeper waters. Not being able to see the bottom was unnerving, but I trepidatiously dipped my toe in to find the soft, silky glacial silt bottom. Down I went up to my neck in the frigid waters, enveloped by its healing embrace and congratulatory hug for a grand accomplishment. Onlookers cheered as I emerged, and the whole experience was quite surreal.

After we packed up, the real fun began as we had to face the boulder fields in the opposite direction. Looking down into the gulch, it was as if you could slide right down the side of the mountain. With some aching feet and popping knees, we made it back to the junction where we were able to encourage others to keep going to their own reward, including an older red-faced trucker who wasn't so sure he could do it. We saw him later and confirmed that he did in fact make it down, but not without a moment
where his vision went white and he thought he might be going "to see the light." At the junction we had a decision to make: head back down the mountain satisfied with our daily accomplishment or press on another 3-mile journey up the mountain toward Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes. We chose the later, and I'm glad we did!

On our way to Surprise, we met a back-country ranger who encouraged us that we were" half-way" there. We were slightly disheartened, but we continued on... up and up and up... After about 12 switchbacks, through the trees we caught a glimpse of the gorgeous clear waters of Surprise Lake, sitting at an elevation of 9,540ft. Few people were there, but The Grand smiled down on us as we watched a marmot play in the altitude.

From there we carried on to Amphitheater Lake which sat in a circular depression just below the peaks. Its warm rocks and deep blue water welcomed us to rest before we made the long descent down the mountain.

All in all, our journey down took about 2 hours, and we spent 8 hours on the trail, 6 of those actively moving. Our totals were about 33k steps and 12.5 miles of some of the toughest terrain I have stepped hiking boots on.

At the end of the trail, I felt incredibly blessed that my body was able to handle the rigors, and that I was able to bear witness to such raw untouched beauty. The Tetons and their hidden treasures continue to capture my heart and refresh my soul.

We finished the day sitting above the beach at Colter Bay, watching the sun dip below the mountains and writing this very entry about the wonders of God's creation and a day of incredible accomplishment. What an honor to be here in the middle of God's creation! I went to sleep again that night thanking the Lord for continuing to "lead me to the rock that is higher than I, for [He has] been my refuge, a strong tower against the enemy." I know that on hard days, I can remember this incredible trek and be certain that God will see me through. 

Click below to hear AI's musical interpretation of our hike: 


Take Me to Delta Lake

Worn boots on a dusty trail
Sun's light dimmed and gray 
Tetons rise like giants
Guiding me their way 

Dreams carried for a lifetime 
Hearts and packs both weighed 
Each step whispers stories of paths by feet once paved
 
Reached Delta's icy mirror 
Breath caught in the chill 
Waters cold as glaciers
They steal the mind's own will 

Plunged in life's cold embrace 
Felt the world's still
Victory in the Shivers
A soul's profound refill
Climbed that rugged ridge
Where dreams and sweat converge
Delta's waters cleanse me
Life's burdens they submerge 

A hike both harsh and hallow 
Where body's trials purge 
Found peace in nature's echo 
Beneath those mountains' verge